About Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol has been presented as a good alternative to retinoids to combat photoaging. Due to its plant origin, it is an ideal candidate as an active ingredient in natural cosmetic formulations.

In this article we present its characteristics and properties. With the intention that it will serve as inspiration for the creation of your natural cosmetic products.

What is bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is a meroterpene found primarily in the legume plant Psoralea corylifolia L. (commonly known as Babchi). This plant also contains other active ingredients such as psoralens, with great dermatological interest for the treatment of diseases such as psoriasis or vitiligo.

It has been used in traditional Chinese and Indian Ayurvedic medicine for centuries. In fact, its natural habitat is in India. It is an annual herbaceous plant. Active ingredients of cosmetic interest, such as bakuchiol, are found in the seeds and leaves of the plant.

What is bakuchiol used for in natural cosmetics?

• A multitude of properties are attributed to this molecule. Some of them are based on their traditional use in oriental medicine.
• From a cosmetic point of view, we are mainly interested in its anti-aging and antioxidant action.
• Bakuchiol as an anti-aging active
• Bakuchiol is capable of activating the production of skin collagen and inhibiting its degradation. The mechanism of action may be related to an inhibition of the activity of metalloproteinases (MMP-1) and the activation of tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases (TIMP-2). As a result, collagen degradation is decreased, directly related to signs of aging such as wrinkles and sagging.
• Metalloproteinases are enzymes that act by degrading collagen and other fibers and components of the dermis. In photoaged skin there is a reduction in type I collagen (the most abundant in the dermis) and associated proteoglycans. Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation induces the expression of metalloproteinases such as MMP-1, on which bakuchiol is active.
• In addition to wrinkles and irregularities in skin texture, spots are also seen on photoaged skin. In different studies it has been seen that the application of bakuchiol improves the uniformity of the tone. It achieves this by intervening in the synthesis of melanin.
• Retinol and its derivatives are the assets that have shown great anti-aging efficacy. In a study published in 2019 in the British Journal Dermatology (referenced at the end of the article) it was revealed that bakuchiol could be a good alternative to retinol. It has the added benefit of being better tolerated by the skin (trial volunteers reported less irritation and flaking). In addition, it can be used both during the day and at night, while retinol is limited to night use. Note that the study compares the use of retinol once a day versus the use of bakuchiol twice a day.

Bakuchiol as an antioxidant active

The antioxidant action of bakuchiol can be useful for two fundamental purposes:

• Contribute to its anti-aging action.
• Improvement in the lipid profile of acne-prone skin.

We have dealt with the anti-aging action extensively in the previous section. As an antioxidant, bakuchiol neutralizes the production of free radicals (ROS) that are produced mainly by sun exposure and other exposome factors.

In acneic skins there is presence of oxidized squalene. This favors inflammation and hyperketatinization of comedones, aggravating acne. To compensate for this squalene oxidation, our skin secretes more vitamin E. This increase in vitamin E in the skin is diminished in acne-prone skin. In a study published in 2016 in the journal Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology , the antioxidant potential of bakuchiol is shown to be greater than that of vitamin E in protecting squalene from oxidation. As a consequence, blemishes are improved and the progress of acne is slowed down.

For the design of products for acne-prone skin, it could be combined with a beta hydroxy acid such as salicylic acid. Formulation with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) is covered in our advanced formulation course in natural cosmetics.

How can we use it in the formulation of our cosmetics?

Bakuchiol could be used as a cosmetic active in the design of hydration, protection and treatment products. It could be used, a priori, on all skin types. As it does not present the tolerance problems of retinol and its derivatives, it could be used even on dry and sensitive skin.

As we have seen in previous sections, we could use it in the design of cosmetics with different objectives. We will mainly use this asset with the aim of creating an anti-aging product or a product for skin with blemishes or acne-prone skin.

In its commercial form it appears as a brownish viscous liquid. According to different efficacy studies, the dosage range to add to our formula would be from 0.5 to 1.0% and No More Then 2%. It is miscible in the oil phase. It should be added in the cooling phase (below 40°C) of the production process, dissolved in a small amount of vegetable oil that we will have reserved. It may be necessary to add a chelator to the aqueous phase, because in the presence of some ions it could form colored complexes.

Below we present some products on the market with bakuchiol. Not all of them are 100% natural, but they can serve to inspire us and create our own cosmetic products with a high percentage of natural ingredients.

• Bakuchiol Serum – Anti-aging serum for dry and sensitive skin.
• Flawless Dark Spots – Anti-dark spots serum.
• Sebium Global – Purifying anti-imperfection emulsion.
• Perfecting serum with 1% Bakuchiol – Anti-aging serum.
• Radically Rejuvenating Dual Phase Bakuchiol Serum – Biphasic anti-aging serum.
• Bio Retinoid Anti-Aging Cream – Anti-aging cream.
• Bakuchiol Booster – Anti-aging oil.